Kebabs, Biryani and Much More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on Unesco Culinary List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking via the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".

The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.

A City Defined by Food

The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.

"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Tender kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.

These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city presents unique treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind airy dessert, in the winter.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall serving masala chai
A renowned tea stall is known for its creamy masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.

On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

Tracie Russell
Tracie Russell

Maya Chen is a city planner and writer passionate about sustainable urban development and cultural diversity in metropolitan areas.

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